How to Paint a Room

Shopping & prep checklist

Required tools

Roller + 3/8" nap cover · 2.5" angled sash brush · Paint tray & liners · Painter's tape · Drop cloths · Spackle & putty knife · Sanding sponge (220 grit) · Step ladder

The steps

1. 1. Measure and buy

   Measure your room's length, width, and ceiling height, count doors and windows, and run the paint calculator above. Buy all the paint at once and have the store shake every can — buying the same color across two trips risks slight tint differences between batches.

   Tip: Photograph the paint can label. Brand, line, color, and sheen — future touch-ups depend on it.

2. 2. Clear and protect the room

   Move furniture to the center and cover it. Lay drop cloths wall to wall, remove outlet and switch plates (bag the screws), and pull nails. Canvas drop cloths grip the floor and don't tear; plastic sheeting is fine for furniture only.

3. 3. Repair the walls

   Fill every nail hole and dent with lightweight spackle, let it dry, and sand flush with a 220-grit sponge. Wipe the sanding dust off with a barely damp cloth — paint won't bond to dust, and every unfilled hole will telegraph straight through your new finish.

   Tip: Run a work light at a low angle across the wall. It exposes dents and ridges your eyes miss head-on.

4. 4. Tape the edges

   Tape the baseboards, door casings, and window trim with painter's tape, pressing the edge down firmly with a putty knife so paint can't bleed underneath. Skip taping the ceiling line for now — you'll cut that in freehand with the angled brush.

5. 5. Prime if needed

   Prime bare drywall, repairs larger than a coin, stains (use a stain-blocking primer), and any dramatic color change. For a similar-color repaint over sound paint, you can skip primer entirely — the calculator's primer toggle follows the same rule.

6. 6. Cut in the edges

   Using the 2.5-inch angled brush, paint a 2–3 inch band along the ceiling line, corners, and around all trim. Load the brush a third of the way, wipe one side, and draw a steady line with the narrow edge. Cut in one wall at a time, then roll that wall while the cut line is still wet — this avoids visible 'picture framing' where brushed and rolled textures meet.

   Tip: A steady cut-in line comes from your shoulder, not your wrist. Move your whole arm and breathe out as you go.

7. 7. Roll the walls

   Load the roller evenly and roll a large 'W' shape in a 3×3 foot section, then fill it in with overlapping vertical strokes, working top to bottom. Keep a wet edge — always roll back into paint that hasn't dried. Don't press hard; pressure causes roller lines and spatter.

8. 8. Second coat

   Wait the full recoat time on the can (usually 2–4 hours for latex). The second coat goes on faster and is what gives you even color and sheen. Resist judging the color until the second coat has dried completely — wet paint reads darker and patchy.

9. 9. Pull tape and touch up

   Pull the tape while the final coat is slightly tacky, at a 45-degree angle away from the wall. If any paint bled through, touch up with a small artist's brush. Reinstall the outlet plates, move the furniture back, and let the room cure a few days before hanging art.

   Tip: If tape lifts paint with it, score the edge lightly with a utility knife before pulling.

Budget lines