Project recipe
Build a Gravel Patio in a Weekend
Roughly a quarter the cost of pavers, genuinely finishable in a weekend, and it drains through itself. It fails in exactly two ways, both of which this plans around.
- Surface and base tonnage for your dimensions
- The stone-type decision, with the honest trade-offs
- Fabric, edging and spoil volume
- Cost against the same patio in pavers
- A weekend sequence with the settle period marked
- A shopping list in supplier units
Build a Gravel Patio in a Weekend — interactive tool
Dimensions
Crushed angular stone (⅜"): Firms up underfoot as the angular faces lock together. Stable to walk on within days.
This is the question that rules pea gravel in or out.
Depths and prices
3 in is standard for a patio.
Leave at 0 and we'll set it from your soil.
192 sq ft - loam soil
Your gravel patio
of crushed angular stone (⅜"), plus 2.99 tons of base
- Cost
- $625
- Per sq ft
- $3.26
- Same in pavers
- $3,264
- Fabric
- 221 sq ft
- Edging
- 59 ft
- Two people
- ~20 hr
Crushed angular stone (⅜")
The right choice for a patio with furniture. Chair legs sit rather than sink.
Slightly harsher underfoot barefoot than decomposed granite, and it shows footprints less kindly.
Home & Garden Living · homeandgarden.living/projects/gravel-patio
Call 811 before you dig
You'll be excavating 6 in over 192 sq ft. Utility locating is free, legally required in most of the US, and takes several days.
Slope it, even though it drains
A gravel patio drains through itself, which handles rain landing on it — but not water arriving from uphill. Pitch the excavation about ⅛ in per foot away from the house and make sure the surrounding grade sends water elsewhere.
Fabric under, not through
Geotextile goes under all the gravel, in one continuous layer with 12 in overlaps at joins. Laying it between the base and surface layers instead is a common error — it stops the two layers keying together and creates a slip plane.
| Item | Quantity | Cost |
|---|---|---|
| Surface: Crushed angular stone (⅜")3 in deep | 2.86 tons | $137 |
| Geotextile separation fabricStops the gravel sinking into the soil and stops weeds coming up. The most-skipped material and the one that decides the ten-year outcome. | 221 sq ft | $62 |
| Crushed aggregate base3 in compacted — loam soil | 2.99 tons | $126 |
| Steel edge restraintWithout this the gravel migrates into the lawn within a season | 59 linear ft | $183 |
| Edging spikes | 24 | $22 |
| Plate compactor rentalNeeded for the base and to settle the surface | 1 day | $95 |
| Materials total (DIY) | $625 | |
The three gravels, compared
Crushed angular stone (⅜")
Firms up underfoot as the angular faces lock together. Stable to walk on within days.
Furniture: The right choice for a patio with furniture. Chair legs sit rather than sink.
Slightly harsher underfoot barefoot than decomposed granite, and it shows footprints less kindly.
Decomposed granite
Compacts to a firm, almost path-like surface. The most pleasant of the three to walk on.
Furniture: Works well with furniture once properly compacted. Stabilised DG is firmer still.
Tracks indoors on shoes, and erodes in heavy rain or on any slope without solid edging.
Pea gravel
Rounded stone never locks together. It rolls underfoot and stays loose indefinitely.
Furniture: Poor. Chair and table legs sink, and every movement redistributes the surface.
The most common gravel-patio mistake. It looks appealing in photographs and is unpleasant to use.
- Area
- 192 sq ft
- Dig depth
- 6 in
- Spoil
- 4.45 cu yd
- Saved vs pavers
- $2,639
One weekend, in order
- Call 811
2-5 days ahead
Free utility locating. Book the gravel delivery after the locate date.
- Mark and excavate
3-5 hours
Down 6 in, pitched about 1/8 in per foot away from the house.
- Set the edging
1-2 hours
Edging first, then fill to it. Far easier than trying to edge a finished surface.
- Lay the fabric
30 min
One continuous layer under everything, 12 in overlaps at joins.
- Base and compact
2-3 hours
2.99 tons in 2 in lifts, compacted between each.
- Surface and compact
2-3 hours
2.86 tons spread and compacted. Rake level, then walk it.
- Settle
A few weeks
It firms up with use and rain. Top up any low spots after the first month.
Your shopping list
$625Surface
Base
Edging
Tools
Take these numbers further
What this estimate assumes
- · Aggregate is taken at 1.4 tons per cubic yard, ordered at 1.15x for the surface layer and 1.2x for base to allow for compaction.
- · Base depth defaults by soil when you leave it at zero: 4 in for clay, 3 in for loam, 2 in for sandy.
- · Fabric covers the area plus 15% for overlaps.
- · Spoil volume is 1.25x the excavated volume, because soil swells when dug.
- · The paver comparison uses $17/sq ft, mid-spec DIY materials from our Patio Paver Calculator.
- · Prices are editable defaults. Replace them with your supplier's numbers.
The cheapest real patio there is, and one of the few hardscape projects a person can honestly finish in a weekend.
A gravel patio costs about a quarter of what pavers cost, needs no compactor for the surface layer on firm ground, drains through itself so runoff is never a problem, and can honestly be finished by two people in a weekend. For a seating area, a fire-pit surround, or a side yard nobody knew what to do with, it is very hard to beat.
It fails in exactly two ways, and both are decided before any stone is delivered. The first is the wrong stone: pea gravel looks appealing in photographs, never locks together, and is genuinely unpleasant to put furniture on — chair legs sink, and every movement redistributes the surface. The second is no edge restraint, which lets the gravel migrate into the lawn within a season so you top it up forever.
Get those two right and the rest is straightforward: fabric, an appropriate base for your soil, three inches of angular stone, and a compactor pass. This calculates the tonnage in the units suppliers actually sell in, tells you how much spoil you'll have to get rid of, and prices it against the same patio in pavers so the comparison is in front of you.
The stone decision, honestly
This is the whole thing. Get it right and the patio is a pleasure; get it wrong and you'll relay it.
Crushed angular stone — typically ⅜ inch — is the default recommendation for anything you'll put furniture on. The angular faces lock together as it's walked on and compacted, and within days it firms into a stable surface. It's slightly harsher underfoot barefoot than the alternative, which is the only real cost.
Decomposed granite compacts to a firm, almost path-like surface and is the most pleasant of the three to walk on. It suits warm dry climates and a more naturalistic look. It tracks indoors on shoes and erodes in heavy rain or on any slope without solid edging, and stabilised DG — with a binder mixed in — addresses both at extra cost.
Pea gravel is rounded because it's been tumbled by water, and rounded stone cannot lock together. It stays loose indefinitely. It's excellent as decorative fill, in a dry stream bed, or immediately around a fire pit where nobody sits directly on it. As a patio surface with chairs on it, it's the most common gravel mistake there is.
| Stone | Underfoot | With furniture | Best for | Drawback |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Crushed angular (⅜") | Firms up as it locks together | The right choice — legs sit rather than sink | Any patio with chairs and a table | Slightly harsh barefoot |
| Decomposed granite | Compacts almost like a path — the nicest to walk on | Works well once properly compacted | Warm dry climates, naturalistic look | Tracks indoors; erodes on slopes without edging |
| Pea gravel | Rolls underfoot, stays loose indefinitely | Poor — legs sink and it redistributes | Decorative fill, dry stream beds, around a fire pit | The most common gravel-patio mistake |
Gravel patio stone types compared. The published decision this tool runs on.
Fabric under everything, in one layer
Geotextile separation fabric does two jobs: it stops the gravel gradually sinking into the soil below, and it stops weeds coming up through it. It costs almost nothing and it's the material most often skipped.
Lay it in one continuous layer under all the aggregate, with at least 12 inches of overlap at any join, and bring it up slightly at the edges. A common error is laying it between the base and the surface layer instead — that stops the two layers keying together and creates a slip plane between them.
Don't use plastic sheet as a substitute. It stops drainage, which removes the main advantage gravel has, and water then sits on top of it under the stone.
Base depth by soil
On sandy, firm, well-drained ground, a light-use gravel patio can go straight over fabric with only a token base. On loam, two to three inches of compacted crushed base is worth it. On clay, four inches is not optional — gravel laid straight onto clay gets pushed down into it and disappears within a couple of years.
The base is different material from the surface: use a crushed base aggregate with fines in it, which compacts to a solid layer, rather than the clean angular stone you're using on top. Two different products doing two different jobs.
Slope, edging, and the settle period
Gravel drains through itself, which handles rain landing on it. It does not handle water arriving from uphill. Pitch the excavation about ⅛ inch per foot away from the house and make sure the surrounding grade sends water somewhere else.
Set the edging before you fill, not after. It's far easier to fill to a fixed edge than to try to edge a finished surface, and the edge is what stops the whole thing migrating. Steel is the neatest and the most durable; treated timber is cheapest; a paver border is the most substantial and roughly doubles the edging cost.
Then expect it to settle. A gravel patio firms up over the first few weeks with use and rain, and low spots appear. Keep a quarter-ton spare and top up after the first month. That isn't a failure — it's how the surface reaches its final density.
Step by step
The order matters more than the technique. Skipping ahead is what causes rework.
Call 811, then mark it out
Request utility locating before you dig — free, legally required in most of the US, and it takes several days, so it decides your schedule. Then mark the patio with string and stakes and live with the outline for a day. Put a chair inside it. Walk the route from the house. This is the cheapest moment to change the size or the position.
Tip: Order the aggregate for after the locate date. A gravel delivery sitting on the driveway while you wait for the locators is a fortnight of inconvenience.
Excavate to depth and set the fall
Dig out to your total depth — surface plus base — keeping the excavation about ⅛ inch per foot lower as it runs away from the house. Barrow the spoil straight to where it's going: it swells roughly 25% once dug, and there's more of it than you expect.
Tip: Cut the edges of the excavation cleanly and vertically. A crisp excavation edge makes setting the restraint far easier than a sloped one.
Set the edge restraint
Install the edging around the whole perimeter before any fill goes in, spiked at about 2.5 ft intervals. Set it so the top sits flush with or slightly above the finished gravel level. Filling to a fixed edge is much easier than edging a finished surface, and this is the component that stops the patio migrating into the lawn.
Tip: Steel edging follows curves well if you relieve it with shallow cuts on the inside of the bend. Don't force it — a kinked edge is permanent.
Lay the fabric in one continuous layer
Roll geotextile across the whole excavation, under everything, overlapping any joins by at least 12 inches and bringing it slightly up at the edges. Pin it with landscape staples so it doesn't shift while you're barrowing over it.
Tip: Never use plastic sheeting instead. It stops the drainage that makes gravel work and leaves water sitting under the stone.
Base layer, compacted in lifts
If your soil needs a base, add crushed base aggregate in 2 inch lifts and compact between each. One thick lift compacted once is not a base — the bottom of it stays loose and settles for years. Check your fall as you go.
Tip: Dampen the base lightly before compacting. Slightly moist aggregate compacts considerably better than bone-dry material.
Surface layer, rake and compact
Spread the surface gravel to about 3 inches, rake it level, then compact. Walk the whole area afterwards in ordinary shoes — anywhere that feels loose or shifts underfoot needs another pass or a little more material.
Tip: Three inches is the useful depth. Deeper feels loose underfoot no matter how much you compact it, and shallower lets the base show through.
Let it settle, then top up
Use the patio. Over the first few weeks, rain and traffic settle the surface to its final density and low spots appear, particularly along the main walking line. Keep a small reserve of stone and top up after a month. This is normal, not a fault.
Tip: Take a photograph of the delivered pile against something for scale. When you need to match the stone in two years, that photo and the supplier's product name are what will save you.
What it costs
| Item | Typical cost |
|---|---|
| Surface gravel, 2–3 tons for 12×16 ft | $120–260 |
| Crushed base aggregate, 2–3 tons (soil dependent) | $90–180 |
| Geotextile separation fabric | $55–90 |
| Steel edge restraint, ~60 linear ft | $140–220 |
| Edging spikes | $20–35 |
| Plate compactor hire, 1 day | $70–110 |
| Spoil disposal, if you can't use it on site | $0–200 |
What this tool assumes
Every number this tool produces rests on these. Change your inputs and they change with you.
- Aggregate is taken at 1.4 tons per cubic yard, ordered at 1.15× for the surface layer and 1.2× for base.
- Base depth defaults by soil when left at zero: 4 in for clay, 3 in for loam, 2 in for sandy.
- Fabric covers the area plus 15% for overlaps.
- Spoil volume is 1.25× the excavated volume, because soil swells when dug.
- The paver comparison uses $17/sq ft of mid-spec DIY materials, from our Patio Paver Calculator.
- Prices are editable defaults. Replace them with your supplier's numbers.
Mistakes that cause rework
Each of these costs money or a whole weekend to undo.
Pea gravel under furniture
Rounded stone never locks together. Chair and table legs sink into it and every movement redistributes the surface. Crushed angular stone costs the same and behaves completely differently.
No edge restraint
Gravel migrates. Without a physical edge it's in the lawn within a season and you top it up forever. Set the edging before you fill.
Plastic sheeting instead of geotextile
Plastic blocks drainage, which is the main advantage gravel has. Water then sits on top of it under the stone. Use woven or non-woven geotextile.
Gravel straight onto clay
Without a compacted base over fabric, gravel gets pushed down into clay and disappears within a couple of years. Four inches of base is the fix.
Going too deep
More than about three inches of surface gravel feels loose underfoot no matter how much you compact it. Depth doesn't add stability — the right stone and a proper base do.
Not budgeting for the spoil
A 12×16 ft patio at 5 inches produces roughly 3.5 cubic yards of soil, and it swells as you dig it. Arrange where it goes before excavation day.
Safety & honest limits
- Call 811 before you dig. Free, legally required in most of the US, and it takes several days.
- Moving 4–6 tons of aggregate by wheelbarrow is genuinely strenuous. Pace it across two days and get help rather than trying to clear a delivery in one afternoon.
- Plate compactors are heavy and vibrate hard. Wear steel-capped boots, hearing protection and gloves.
- Keep the finished surface at least 6 inches below any siding, weep holes or damp-proof course.
- Gravel surfaces are not suitable for wheelchairs, walkers or anyone unsteady. If accessibility matters, pavers or a slab are the correct choice.
- Costs are estimates, not quotes.
Frequently asked questions
What is the best gravel for a patio?
Crushed angular stone, typically ⅜ inch, for anything with furniture on it — the angular faces lock together into a stable surface. Decomposed granite is the nicest to walk on and suits dry climates. Pea gravel looks good in photographs and is genuinely unpleasant to put chairs on.
How much gravel do I need for a patio?
About 1.4 tons per cubic yard, at 3 inches deep for the surface plus whatever base your soil needs. A 12×16 ft patio needs roughly 2.5 tons of surface gravel plus 2–3 tons of base on loam or clay. This tool converts it for your dimensions.
Do you need a base under a gravel patio?
On clay, definitely — four inches of compacted crushed base over fabric, or the gravel gets pushed into the clay and disappears. On loam, two to three inches is worth it. On firm sandy ground, a light-use patio can go over fabric with only a token base.
How much does a gravel patio cost?
$350–700 in materials for a 12×16 ft patio, which is roughly $2–4 per square foot. The same patio in pavers runs $2,200–3,300 in materials. Installed, gravel is typically $6–12 per square foot.
Do you put fabric under a gravel patio?
Yes — geotextile separation fabric under all the aggregate, in one continuous layer with 12 inch overlaps. It stops the gravel sinking into the soil and stops weeds coming up. Never plastic sheeting, which blocks the drainage that makes gravel work.
How deep should gravel be on a patio?
About three inches of surface gravel. Deeper feels loose underfoot however much you compact it, and shallower lets the base show through. Stability comes from the right stone and a proper base, not from depth.
Does a gravel patio need edging?
Yes, unless it's fully contained by existing walls. Gravel migrates, and without a physical edge it's in the lawn within a season. Set the edging before you fill — it's much easier than edging a finished surface.
Last reviewed July 25, 2026 · Home & Garden Living
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